Foundation garment

ABSTRACT

A brassiere providing both support and self-adjustment within standardized size designations having a torso encircling portion and non-stretchable bust cups having an underlying under-bust section and peripheral stretchable portions along the inner and outer edges of the cups. The stretchable portions along the inner edges of the cups form a medial Y section with the yoke of the Y between the cups. The stretch characteristics in the stretchable portions are preselected as to direction and degree to allow for self-adjustment in preselected areas and the transmittal of forces to dissipate their effect. The disclosure includes these features in front and rear closure embodiments in both bandeau and long-line versions.

United States Patent Hittel et al. 1 Oct. 24, 1972 [54] FOUNDATION GARMENT 3,393,681 7/1968 Sachs ..128/498 72 Inventors: William C. Hind, New Hyde Park, 2,888,930 6/1959 Coleman et a1 ..l28/494 X N Y.; Ch M- Sachs, Teaneck, 2,882,905 4/1959 Barg ..128/482 NJ. Primary Examiner-James R. Boler Asslgfleei g i lll y corporatlona AttorneyStewart J. Fried and Jeffrey A. Schwab ew or [22] Filed: Sept. 21, 1970 [57] ABSTRACT 2 Appl' 73, 24 A brassiere providing both support and self-adjustment within standardized size designations having a torso encirclin ortion and non-stretchable bust cu s [52] US. Cl. ..128/491, 128/498, 128/482, having lgmlzierlying under bust Section s I t Cl peripheral stretchable portions along the inner and n c I 0 n I u v s d f Th t t h n [58] Field of Search ..l28/491, 489, 494, 498, 482, i i z edgzs 3E s g f 2 35; 128/427 tion with the yoke of the Y between the cups. The stretch characteristics in the stretchable portions are [56] References cued preselected as to direction and degree to allow for UNITED STATES PATENTS szefllf-zta cpustmetnt preselgft ed iafrezis zl nhd ctlhe ltransmito orces o issi ae eire ec. e 180 osurein- 2,719,975 10/1955 Rosenthal... 128/491 eludes these feature}; in from and rear closure embodi 3,566,878 3/ 1971 Radomski ..128/489 ments in both bandeau and |ong 1ine versimm 3,192,929 7/1965 Guberman ..l28/494 X 3,392,732 7/' 1968 31 Claims, 10 Drawing Figures Hiilscher ..l28/489 PATENTEDHCT24 I912 3.699.971

SHEET 1 OF 5 INVENTORQ CHARLES M. SACHS WILLIAM c. HlTTEL 6,) 1 AT ORNEYS PATENTEDUET 24 I972 SHEET 2 [IF 5 CHARLES M. SACHS WILLIAM C. HITTEL AT ORNEYS' PATENTEDnm 24 I972 9 699.971

saw 3 er 5 INVENTORS, CHARLES mucus WILLIAM c. HIT TEL A RNE YS PATENTEDUCI 24 m2 SHEET U 0F 5 INVENTORS CHARLES M. SACHS WILLIAM C. HIT TEL PATENTED 0m 24 I972 SHEET 5 BF 5 INVENTORS CHARLES M.SACHS WILLIAM C. HITTEL 1 FOUNDATION GARMENT BACK GROUND THE INVENTION foundation garments, manufactures have designated various girth and bust cup sizes, enabling women to purchase a brassiere for example that has the proper volumeric capacity for the particular size of the wearersbus't as it relates to the torso dimensions. In

theart, the bust cup sizes are progressively alphabetically identified such AA-D with the girth dimensions identified by numbers for example 30-40. It will be appreciated that the dimensions of any such garment is thus standardized to some extent so that it can be used by a majority of women having a bust size and girth falling within the particular. standardized size designation, eg. 30A, 34B, etc. v

However, it is recognized that both the girth of the female torso at the bust and the volurneric capacities of the bust vary or change within each class of standardized'size designation as well as with body breathing and movement. Thus, many garments usually comprise an encircling structure having some adjustment means at the fasteners for girth adjustment and are made of a distensible material to accommodate such variations within each standardized class designation. To some degree prior workers have also provided ,stretch characteristics either in or about the cups in an attempt to allow for variance in breast dimensions or shape in a given size. However, the addition or use of stretchable material in a brassiere presents many problems. While size variations may be effected, the ability of the brassiere to shape and support may be adversely effected.

There-has, therefore, long been a need to provide a torso encircling garment, such as a brassiere which is so constructed and arranged to automatically overcome and inherently adjust to the differences between the weights and sizes or shapes and configurations of a females bust withing any one class designation and at the same time comfortably retain the desirable support and shaping characteristics as the wearer moves about. It will be appreciated that the problems of size variations and support is encountered by women having any bust size, however, the problem is present to a greater degree among those women having larger bust sizes.

Due to its ability to adjust and accommodate various bust sizes within any one class designation, the brassiere of the present invention further provides comfort insofar as the brassiere has the ability to adjust to the variations in size and conformation of the bust generally experienced by a wearer due to minor variations in weight and shape caused by the menstrual cycle or other fluctuations in the body fluid retention of the wearer during various periods of time and as the wearer moves about.

1 Accordingly, it is the principal object of the present invention to provide foundation garments, such as brassieres, and the like, that are constructed and arranged to accommodate variations in the dimensions of the torso, and bust conformation enabling the wearer to choose a garment of proper size with respect to controlling dimensions and class designations, while yet enabling the garment to accord optimum support, shaping and separation and be completely comfortable during use at all times.

Another object of the invention, in addition to the foregoing object, is to provide brassieres,and the like, that are self-adjusting on a wearer so as to maintain the shape, contour and support of the busts during minor size and shape variations normally experienced over a period of time. I

An additional object of the present invention, is to provide a foundation garment, such as a brassiere, that is capable of fabrication by known brassiere manufacturing apparatus, procedures, techniques and the like.

. As will be more fully explained herein, the present invention has accomplished these objects by the selectively balancing the lines of forces of the materials employed to dissipate stress along given lines and providing yieldable directionally oriented lines of force in other areas.

SUMMARY According to the present invention, there is provided a torso encircling foundation garment having a torso encircling portion, an underbust support and a pair of bust cups for molding and supporting the breasts of a female torso comprising non-stretchable breasts supporting assemblies and means for framing said cups so as to maintain shape, comfort and support; said framing including outer stretchable panels along at least a portion of the upper, outer edges of said 'cups, and a medial, substantially Y-shaped stretchable panel spaced between the cups. The medial Y-shaped panel comprises a pair of panels forming a yoke and branch portions of said Y-shaped panel. Preferably the Y-shaped panel extends from a position below the bust cups to at least along a portionv of the upper, inner edges of the cups with the extension below the bust cups providing a sector of release in' the underbust area. Each of the branches which make up the Y-shaped medial panel preferably have a primary stretch direction angularly disposed with respect to the girthwise direction of the underbust portion and with respect to each other with the primary direction of stretch progressively deviating away from the horizontal towards the vertical as each branch extends upward along the cups.

it will, therefore, be appreciated that the invention resides in the combination, construction; arrangement and disposition of the various component parts and elements incorporated in an improved foundation garment, such as a brassiere, or the like.

Other advantages, objects and features of the present invention other than those specifically enumerated above will become apparent from a study of the following detailed specification, which when taken in conjunction with ,the annexed drawing together describes,

discloses, illustrates and shows certain preferred embodiments or modifications of the present invention and what is considered the best mode of practicing the principles thereof. It will be noted that in the drawing, like parts are identified where applicable by primed reference numerals.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWING FIG. 1 is a front ,elevational view of a brassiere constructed in accordance with the invention withthe side portions (dorsal bands) shown turned into the plane of the front portion thereof;

FIG. 2 is a rear elevational view of the brassiere of FIG. 1 also with the side portions or dorsal bands shown turned into the plane of the rear portion thereof;

FIG. 3 is a side elevational view of the brassiere of FIGS. 1 and 2;

FIG. 4 is a sectional view, along the line 4-4 of FIG.

FIG. 5 is a partial front elevational view of another brassiere constructed in accordance with the principles of the present invention, wherein the fastener structure resides in the front rather than the rear of the garment structure;

FIG. 6 is a front elevational view, similar to that of FIG. 1, of yet another brassiere constructed in accordance with the principles of the present invention;

FIG. 7 is a rear elevational view, similar to that of FIG. 2, but of the brassiere of FIG. 6;

FIG. 8 is a side elevational view of the brassiere shown in FIGS. 6 and 7;

FIG. 9 is a sectional view, along the line 9-9 of FIG. 8; and

FIG. 10 is a partial front elevational view, similar to that of FIG. 5, but of a further modification of the brassiere of the present invention.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS:

With reference to the drawing; and particularly to FIGS. l4 thereof, there is shown ageneral purpose foundation garment, such as a brassiere, constructed in accordance with the principles of the instant invention, and generally designated by the reference character 10. The brassiere 10 comprises a pair of bust cups or breast receiving assemblies 12 and 14 adapted to be supported on a female torso by means of suitable torso-encircling means having (in this embodiment) a black or rear fastening structure 16, preferably of the adjustment type, and a pair of shoulder straps 18 and 20 which may be of any suitable material.

The bust cups or breast receiving assemblies 12 and 14 are preferably of non-stretchable material and are of the arched cup design comprising upper and lower panels 22 and 24 respectively having a seam line 26 therebetween to provide a cup of generally conical configuration. Suitably, a plurality of parallel stitches 28 are employed at the seam line 26 to hold the panels together at such seam line. Other bust cups or breast receiving assemblies of more conventional construction and design-may be employed, if desired, and it will be understood that the bust cups shown herein are illust'rated as exemplary. It will also be appreciated that the cups l2 and 14 are of triangular configuration in that each cup has an outer peripheral portion 30, an inner peripheral portion 32 and a peripheral base portion 34 at the underbust area. In the embodiment illustrated in FIGS. 1-4, non-distensible band portions 36' having cradles or arcuate upper shaped portions 38 are suitably secured along the seam line or peripheral base portion 34 of each cup by means of a non-distensible curvature and shape of the cradle portion of said cups,

and provide the basic support in the under-bust area. This underbust area of the garment is constructed of a non-stretchable material or an inherently stretchable material which is otherwise locked against appreciable stretch as by use of a non-stretchable backing. For aesthetic purposes, such underbust areas may be of a material visually akin to the hereinafter described'dorsal panels 56. The non-distensible nature-of band portion 36 provides anchoring support for the lower portion of the breast and inhibits the underbust portions from riding up over the breast protuberances. It should be noted, however that an area of strain relief is provided to the otherwise non-distensible underbust area along the central area between the cup in that elastic release along a plane below the lowermost portion of the cups is provided in the common trunk 46 of the centrally disposed Y-shaped panels 40. Whereas a fully non stretchable underbust panel would have a tendency upon girthwise stress to move upward and/or curl and a fully stretchable underbust panel would be less supportive and would have a tendencyto be drawn upward between the cups due to the forces exerted by the stretchable medial panel, the underbust area of the present invention is constructed so as balance the underbust area and preclude warping and distortion of the cradles or of the cups.

Between the cups 12 and 14 is the Y-shaped medial panel 40 of elastic stretchable material having branch portions 42 which extend from a position below the bust cups 12 and 14 to the shoulder straps 18 and 20. The front ends of the straps are suitably anchored at the upper edge of each of the branch portions 42; and as is generally provided at such areas are adjustment assemblies 44 for adjustably securing the shoulder strap structure relative to the cups structure in a manner that is considered readily apparent to those skilled in the art.

The Y-shaped medial panel 40 extends to the bottom and band portions 36 of the garment and is so constructed and arranged to maintain itself against the sternum of the body so as to promote optimum shaping and separated configuration of the breasts, and to preclude migration of the breasts. That is, the primary force lines (illustrated generally by the fine lines shown in the various panels and in certain instances by arrows) of stretch and elasticity exerted by the material within the lower yoke or central trunk 46 bring the central area in towards the body, with the inelastic central portion 49 (most clearly shown in FIG. 2) separating the oppositely biased primary lines of forces on either side of the inelastic central portion 49. Thus, the forces exerted on either side of the central portion '49 can act relatively independantly of the forces acting on the op posite side. This effect in turn provides good separation of the breasts and at the same time promotes the overall appearance. This arrangement also maintains the basic natural contour of the breasts by bringing the central area in towards the sternum thus positioning the inner cup edges along the innermost portion of the breast.

The non-distensible tape which extends vertically along the central portion 49, joins together the lower half portions of the branch portions 42. The primary orientation and directions of stretch along each of the branch portions 42 is such that the primary lines of stretch are disposed along progressively difiering attitudes to the horizontal, with the primary lines of stretch more closely approaching the vertical toward the upper inner edge of the cups. In other words, the inner stretchable panels or branch portions 42 have a primary stretch direction angularly disposed with respect to the underbust and with respect to each other and, the bias lines approaching the upper inner edge of the cup form and angle with the bias lines at the center yoke construction of the brassieres, and these bias lines, if extended to infinity, would meet. This is shown and particularly indicated by the directional arrow lines 47 and 49 illustrating the bias lines and direction of stretch of the panels forming the Y-shaped panel which are essentially in a direction substantially transverse to yoke and branches of the Y. i

While the primary lines of stretch are illustrated by the lines in the drawings and the arrow lines 47 and 49, it is to be appreciated that, to some degree give or stretch to a lesser degree is possible along lines slightly at an angle to the primary lines of stretch.

At the outer peripheral portions 32 of the cups 13 and 14 are side panels 50 of the same stretchable material as the branch portions 42. These side panels 50 extend from the band portions 36 toward the top of each cup. Directional arrow lines 51 and 52 indicate the primary direction of stretch of said panels which as shown progress from a substantially horizontal direction along the lower portions to a bias direction towards the apex.

It should be noted that the side panels 50 are in the general shape of trapeziums and progressively widen as they approach the level of the upper edge of the dorsal band 56 and then progressively narrow along the upper outer edge of the cup section 22. As is more apparent in FIG. 3 this arrangement and orientation provides a zone of adjustability spatially removed from the supporting underbust area, with the area of greatest adjustment located along the approximate side midheight of the breast. Thus,size variation of the breast is accommodated by allowing the non-distensible pockets to move either closer or away from the chest without a loss of support. Further, the forces exerted by the side panels 50 are separated (as shown in FIG. 4) from the dorsal bands 56 by non-distensible tapes, 70, 72 thus allowing independent action as between the .dorsal bands 56 and the side panels 50.

The cups 12 and 14are preferably secured to the panels 40 and 50 by means of ladder stitching 54. Since the ladder stitching 54 is an openwork stitch a slight degree of adjustability is provided giving the cups what may be termed a floating action.

Since the areas about the cups 12 and 14 are stretchable, the cups self-adjust to the difierent shapes, configurations and contours of the breasts of a torso classified within the same cup size. Whereas the widest portion of the side panels 50 as hereinbefore stated are so oriented to minimize any loss of support, it will also be noted that the widest portion of the branches of the Y-shaped medial panel is at the yoke of the Y before the same branches out to form the forked construction thus allowing for adjustment between the breasts at a Dorsal bands 56, preferably of an all way stretch material, such as described and claimed in U.S. Pat. No. 3,489,154 extend from along the outer side edges of the band portions 36 and the outer peripheral portions 30 of the cups 12 and 14 to the back or rear fastening structure 16. Theback or rear ends of the shoulder straps 18 and 20 are suitably fastened to one side of each dorsal band 56. Such"all way stretch material is commercially available under the trademark SPANETTE of the International Playtex Corporation of Delaware, U.S.A.

As best shown in FIG. 2, a wide lower band portion 58 of elastic material is provided along the entire lowermost portion of the garment. Such band 58 is suitably secured by means, such as stitching to the dorsal bands 56, and band portions 36. Where the band 58 is sewed to the non-distensible band portions 36, no stretching-of said band occurs except as desired in the area immediately below the yoke of the Y. In a like manner, suitable narrow elastic band portions 60 extend along the upper edges 62 and 64 respectively, of the side or dorsal band panels 56 and the side panels 50, from the rear or back end portions of the shoulder straps to the front anchoring means securing the shoulder straps to the branch portions 42 of the Y- shaped medial panel 40.

Other narrow elastic bands having less elasticity and stretch than the bands 60 are also provided along the inside peripheral edges 66 of the branch portions 42 from the front anchoring means for the shoulder straps l8 and 20 to the yoke portion of the Y-shaped medial panel 40. The bands along the inside peripheral edges 66 of the branch portions 42 provide a relatively secure anchorage for the branch portions 42, thus maintaining the branch portions 42 in their desired initial orientation.

As best shown in FIG. 4, a non-distensible binding tape 68 is provided on the inside of the garment at the seam line formed by the ladder stitches 54 holding the upper and lower panels 22, 24 of the cups to the stretchable side panels 50.

Such arrangement and construction lends itself to anchoring or setting the initial bias orientation of the side panels 50. Likewise, other non-distensible binding tapes and 72 provided on respectively the inside and outside of the garment at seam lines 35 formed by the connection of the dorsal bands 56 to the side panels 50 and band portions 36 not only isolate the side panels 50 from the action of the dorsal bands 56, but in turn sets the bias orientation of the side panels 50. As can therefore be appreciated an isolation of stretch and nonstretch areas is effected which allows for independent action in selected areas and interdependance in others. For example, due to the fact that the branch portions 42 extend beyond the strap anchorage and due to the orientation of stretch along the branch portions 42 in the area juxtaposed to such anchorage, the force exerted by the strap and those relieved by the branch portions 42 are more closely in line, with the side panels 50 isolated from such force line and thus able to act independantly thereof.

With reference now to FIGS. 5-9, there is shown and illustrated other foundation garments, constructed in accordance with the principles of this invention. For example, in FIG. 5, there is shown a garment similar to that of FIGS. 1-4 except that the securing means 74 holding the brassiere about the body of the wearer is disposed in front rather that at the back of the body. Such construction may be more desirable by certain women since it eliminates the difficulty of back or rear closings. In such a modified construction, the dorsal band 76 is actually of a one-piece structure extending completely from a non-distensible band or seam line 78 to another non-distensible band or seam line on the outer side of the other cup (not shown). Similarly, the shoulder strap 80 only partially shown) may extend in one piece from the apex of one cup to the apex of the other cup and is suitably secured. along the central rear portion 82 of the single, one-piece dorsal band 76. Of course, the securing means 74 which may be of the conventional adjustable type is suitably stitched, as at 84, to the lower half portions of the branch portions 86 which form the yoke area of the Y-shaped medial panel when the securing means is fastened or locked together. It'will be appreciated that the-front securement along the yoke area does not detrimentally affect the desired functionality of the branch portions 42 where they extend downward to form the yoke since the non-distensible closure arrangement in this area, acts in a manner similar to the non-distensible tape 49 described with respect to FIGS. 1 and 2.

As described with respect to the orientation of the strap anchorage and the branch portions 42, forces are by virtue of the structure arrangement transmitted to the shoulder straps. Where the shoulder straps are stretchable, the shoulder straps upon stretching transmits such forces over the shoulder and down the back of the brassiere. In use, these forces are substantially dissipated by the time the forces have been transmitted to the back of the brassiere. The forces which are generated along the outer sides of the cups are also 7 transmitted to the shoulder straps via the side panels and in a like manner are dissipated at the rear of the garment. Where the shoulderstraps are not stretchable strain relief is provided by the somewhat vertically oriented stretch characteristics of the branches 42 along the strap securement area.

In FIGS. 6-9, there is shown a long line form of foundation garment where like elements are shown with primed reference numerals and where the differences between such garment and the garments hereinbefore described with respect to FIGS. 1-5 is primarily in the construction of the band portions or skirt beneath the cups and the lack of ladder stitching about the upper side portions of the cups. As shown in FIGS. 6 and 7, each lower band or skirt portion comprises a pair of panels 90 and 92 connected by means of non-distensible tapes or bands 91 on both sides thereof along diagonal seam lines 93. The innermost panels 90 are suitably stitched or sewn to the lower half or extended yoke of the branch portions 94 which form the Y- shaped medial panel 95 by means of stitching 98 along corresponding non-distensible tapes or bands 97 on the inside of the garment, as best shown in FIG. 7.

The panels 90 are preferably of a non-stretchable material, whereas the outermost panels 92 are stretchable, preferably of the all way stretch material identified hereinbefore with respect to the dorsal panels of the embodiments of FIGS. 1-5. As shown in FIG. 7, a narrow band 94 of elastic material is sewn at the bottom of the garment between the seam lines 96 formed at the joint or band connection between the dorsal bands 98 ofthe side panels 100 and outermost panels 92 in a manner as will hereinafter be described with respect to FIG. 9. Of course, this band 94 is only horizontally stretchable in that portion of zone beneath the panels 92 inasmuch as the material forming said panels 92 are of the all way stretch type, whereas panels 90 are non-stretchable. Panels 90, therefore, preclude said band 94 from stretching in the zone beneath said panels since the band 94 is also stitched along thebottom of all of said panels.

The side seam 96, as shown in FIG. 9, is suitably equipped with a reinforcing or stiffening member 102 within the binding tape means 104 so as to provide further supporting means to the overall brassiere structure. The outer peripheral portions of the cups l2 and 14 are secured to the respective adjacent panels by means of conventional stitching, such as parallel stitching 106. Wide elastic bands 108 are suitably secured along the bottom portion of the dorsal bands 98 from the fastening structure 16' to the side seam 96.

In FIG. 10, a front securing garment is shown similar to that of FIG. 5, except that it represents the long-line modification of the garments of the invention. In this arrangement, the dorsal band 110 is also of one piece construction and extends completely about the back of the user. Thus, it extends from seam line- 112 to the analogous seam line on the outer side of the other cup (not shown). In a like manner, the shoulder strap 114 (only partially shown) also extends in one piece from the top of one cup to the top of the other cup in a manner like the strap 80 of FIG. 5. I

It will be appreciated that in all of the embodiments the securing means whether in front or back of the garment is disposed along the full length of the garment at such junction area. Such arrangement further assists in dissipating the forces in the garment so that the garment is comfortable and maintains the shaping, contour and support of the busts at all times.

As can thus be appreciated, the various features of the brassiere interact with the firm support of the underbust and non-stretchable breast cups provided with areas of preselected, predetermined release and with forces transmitted in localized areas and controlled or contained in other areas for customized fit.

While the invention has been shown illustrated, described and disclosed in terms of embodiments or modifications which it has assumed in practice, the scope of the invention should not be deemed to be limited by the precise embodiments or modifications herein shown illustrated, described and disclosed, such other embodiments or modifications intended to be reserved especially as they fall within the scope of the claims here appended.

What is claimed is: r

1. A brassiere having a pair of bust assemblies for supporting the breasts of a female body comprising,

a pair of non-stretchable breast cups, each of said cups having a lower edge, an inner edge and an outer edge,

an underbust portion extending below each of said cups, said underbust portion including a nonstretchable section extending at least along a portion of the lower edge of each of said cups,

an inner peripheral stretchable panel along at least a major portion of the inner edgeof each of said cups, each of said inner stretchable panels extendshaped assembly between said cups, each of said inner panels having a primary stretch direction angularly disposed with respect to the girthwise direction of said underbust portion and with I respect to each other,

and body encircling means operably linked to said cups to form a torso encircling assembly.

2. The brassiere as claimed in claim 1 further including a substantially non-stretchable central member along the line of juxtaposition of said inner stretchable panels.

3. The brassiere as claimed in claim 1 wherein said primary stretch direction of each of said inner stretchable panels progressively deviates away from the horizontal towards the vertical as each said panel extends upward along the inner edge of each of said cups.

4. The brassiere as claimed in claim 1 wherein said underbust portion includes a substantially nonstretchable cradle-shaped section extending along the lower edge of each of said cups and wherein said juxtaposed inner stretchable panels extend vertically between said cradle portions.

5. The brassiere as claimed in claim 1 further includ' ing a pair of shoulder strap assemblies, each of said shoulder strap assemblies extending from a point of juxtaposition to said inner stretchable panels to a point along said body encircling means.

6. The brassiere as claimed in claim 1 further including outer stretchable panels extending along a major portion of said outer edge of each of said cups.

7. The brassiere as claimed in claim 6 wherein each of said outer stretchable panels extends from a poin along the line of said lower cup edge.

8. The brassiere as claimed in claim 6 where said outer stretchable panels are, adapted to stretch in a horizontal and bias direction.

9. The brassiere as claimed in claim 6 wherein each of said outer stretchable panels is in the general shape of a trapezuim having its longest side along said outer cup edge.

10. The brassiere as claimed in claim 6 wherein each of said outer stretchable panels includes a substantially vertical side juxtaposed to said torso encircling assembly.

11. The brassiere as claimed in claim 10 wherein said torso encircling assembly includes dorsal portions of an all-way stretch material.

12. The brassiere as claimed in claim 11 further including a substantially vertical non-stretchable member between said dorsal portions and said substantially vertical side of said outer stretchable panel.

13. The brassiere as claimed in claim 6 wherein said inner stretchable panels and said outer stretchable panels are joined to the periphery of said substantially non-stretchable breast cups by openwork stitching.

14. The brassiere as claimed in claim 1 further including a substantially non-stretchable border along the outer edges of the branches of said Y-shaped medial panel.

15. The brassiere as claimed in claim 6 wherein the upper outer edge of said outer stretchable panel in cludes a stretchable border.

16. The brassiere as claimed in claim 1 wherein said torso encircling assembly includes closure means.

17. The brassiere as claimed in claim 16 wherein said closure means is along the medial line between said cups.

18. The brassiere as claimed in claim 1 wherein said brassiere is a long-line including a skirt extending below said lower edge of said cups.

19. A longline brassiere having a pair of bust assemblies for supporting the breasts of a female body comprising,

a pair of nonstretchable breast cups,

each of said cups having a lower edge, an inner edge and an outer edge,

a skirt, a portion of said skirt extending below said lower edges of said cups, said skirt including a nonstretchable section extending at least along a portion of the lower edge of each of said cups,

an inner peripheral stretchable panel along at least a major portion of the inner edge of each of said cups, each of said inner stretchable panels extending vertically along the major vertical extent of said skirt, said inner stretchable panels juxtaposed along the medial area between said cups and forming a Y-shaped assembly between said cups,

each of said inner panels having a primary stretch direction angularly disposed with respect to the girthwise direction of said underbust portion and with respect to each other,

and body encircling means operably linked to said cups to form a torso encircling assembly.

20. A brassiere comprising, I

a torso encircling portion and a pair of non-stretchable breast cups,

each of said cups'including a lower edge, an inner edge and an outer edge,

an underbust section extending below each of said cups, v

first peripheral stretchable portions along the major extent of said inner edges, second peripheral stretchable portions along the major extent of said outer edges, said first and second peripheral portions meeting along the upper peripheral area of said cup,

said stretchable portions along said inner edges forming a medial substantially Y-shaped section with the yoke of said Y between said cups,

said stretchable portions along said outer edges disposedbetween each of said cups and said torso encircling portions,

each of said peripheral surrounding portions affixed along a side thereof to a portion of said nonstretchable cups,

and non-stretchable members extending substantially vertically along the medial region of said yoke and substantially vertically along the line of juxtaposition between said stretchable portions and said torso encircling portion.

- said lower cup edges.

24. The brassiere as claimed in claim further including a non-stretchable portion between said stretchable portion along said inner cup edge and said stretchable portion along said outer cup edge.

25. The brassiere as claimed in claim 20 wherein said stretchable portions along said inner edges includes a first branch section along the inner edge of one of said cups and a second branch section along the inner edge of the other of .said cups and wherein said branches have a primary stretch direction angularly disposed with respect to the girthwise direction of said underbust section and with respect to each other.

26. The brassiere as claimed in claim wherein said primary stretch direction of each of said branches progressively deviates away from the horizontal towards the vertical as said branches extend upward along the inner edge of each of said cups.

27. The brassiere as claimed in claim 26 further including a pair of shoulder strap assemblies, each of said shoulder strap assemblies extending from a point of juxtaposition to one of said branches along an upper region thereof to a point along said torso encircling portron.

28. The brassiere as claimedin claim 20 wherein said ,torso encircling portion includes dorsal sections of an all-way stretch material.

29. The brassiere as claimed in claim 20 including closure means along the yoke of said Y.

30. The brassiere as claimed in claim 20 wherein said brassiere is a long-line including a skirt extending below said lower edge of said cups;

31. A longline brassiere comprising,

a torso encircling portion and a pair of non-stretchable breast cups,

each of said cups including a lower edge, an inner edge and an outer edge,

a skirt, a portion of said skirt extending below each of said cups,

peripheral stretchable portions along the major extent of said inner and outer edges,

said stretchable portions along said'inner edges extending vertically along the major vertical extent of said skirt,

said stretchable portions along said inner edges forming, a medial substantially Y-shaped section with the yoke of said Y between said cups,

said stretchable portions along said outer edges disposed between each of said cups and said torso encircling portions,

each of said peripheral surrounding portions affixed along a side thereof to a portion of said nonstretchable cups,

and non-stretchable members extending substantially vertically along the medial region of said yoke and substantially vertically along the line of juxtaposition between said stretchable portions and said torso e rgcir clir l g pgrtign. 

1. A brassiere having a pair of bust assemblies for supporting the breasts of a female body comprising, a pair of non-stretchable breast cups, each of said cups having a lower edge, an inner edge and an outer edge, an underbust portion extending below each of said cups, said underbust portion including a non-stRetchable section extending at least along a portion of the lower edge of each of said cups, an inner peripheral stretchable panel along at least a major portion of the inner edge of each of said cups, each of said inner stretchable panels extending to said underbust portion to a point below the line of said lower cup edge, said inner stretchable panels joined to provide means for release between said non-stretchable sections along an area below the lowermost plane of said cups, said inner stretchable panels juxtaposed along the medial area between said cups and forming a Y-shaped assembly between said cups, each of said inner panels having a primary stretch direction angularly disposed with respect to the girthwise direction of said underbust portion and with respect to each other, and body encircling means operably linked to said cups to form a torso encircling assembly.
 2. The brassiere as claimed in claim 1 further including a substantially non-stretchable central member along the line of juxtaposition of said inner stretchable panels.
 3. The brassiere as claimed in claim 1 wherein said primary stretch direction of each of said inner stretchable panels progressively deviates away from the horizontal towards the vertical as each said panel extends upward along the inner edge of each of said cups.
 4. The brassiere as claimed in claim 1 wherein said underbust portion includes a substantially non-stretchable cradle-shaped section extending along the lower edge of each of said cups and wherein said juxtaposed inner stretchable panels extend vertically between said cradle portions.
 5. The brassiere as claimed in claim 1 further including a pair of shoulder strap assemblies, each of said shoulder strap assemblies extending from a point of juxtaposition to said inner stretchable panels to a point along said body encircling means.
 6. The brassiere as claimed in claim 1 further including outer stretchable panels extending along a major portion of said outer edge of each of said cups.
 7. The brassiere as claimed in claim 6 wherein each of said outer stretchable panels extends from a point along the line of said lower cup edge.
 8. The brassiere as claimed in claim 6 where said outer stretchable panels are adapted to stretch in a horizontal and bias direction.
 9. The brassiere as claimed in claim 6 wherein each of said outer stretchable panels is in the general shape of a trapezuim having its longest side along said outer cup edge.
 10. The brassiere as claimed in claim 6 wherein each of said outer stretchable panels includes a substantially vertical side juxtaposed to said torso encircling assembly.
 11. The brassiere as claimed in claim 10 wherein said torso encircling assembly includes dorsal portions of an all-way stretch material.
 12. The brassiere as claimed in claim 11 further including a substantially vertical non-stretchable member between said dorsal portions and said substantially vertical side of said outer stretchable panel.
 13. The brassiere as claimed in claim 6 wherein said inner stretchable panels and said outer stretchable panels are joined to the periphery of said substantially non-stretchable breast cups by openwork stitching.
 14. The brassiere as claimed in claim 1 further including a substantially non-stretchable border along the outer edges of the branches of said Y-shaped medial panel.
 15. The brassiere as claimed in claim 6 wherein the upper outer edge of said outer stretchable panel includes a stretchable border.
 16. The brassiere as claimed in claim 1 wherein said torso encircling assembly includes closure means.
 17. The brassiere as claimed in claim 16 wherein said closure means is along the medial line between said cups.
 18. The brassiere as claimed in claim 1 wherein said brassiere is a long-line including a skirt extending below said lower edge of said cups.
 19. A longline brassiere having a pair of bust assemblies for supporting the breasts of a female body comprising, a pair of non-stretchable breast cups, each of said cups having a lower edge, an inner edge and an outer edge, a skirt, a portion of said skirt extending below said lower edges of said cups, said skirt including a non-stretchable section extending at least along a portion of the lower edge of each of said cups, an inner peripheral stretchable panel along at least a major portion of the inner edge of each of said cups, each of said inner stretchable panels extending vertically along the major vertical extent of said skirt, said inner stretchable panels juxtaposed along the medial area between said cups and forming a Y-shaped assembly between said cups, each of said inner panels having a primary stretch direction angularly disposed with respect to the girthwise direction of said underbust portion and with respect to each other, and body encircling means operably linked to said cups to form a torso encircling assembly.
 20. A brassiere comprising, a torso encircling portion and a pair of non-stretchable breast cups, each of said cups including a lower edge, an inner edge and an outer edge, an underbust section extending below each of said cups, first peripheral stretchable portions along the major extent of said inner edges, second peripheral stretchable portions along the major extent of said outer edges, said first and second peripheral portions meeting along the upper peripheral area of said cup, said stretchable portions along said inner edges forming a medial substantially Y-shaped section with the yoke of said Y between said cups, said stretchable portions along said outer edges disposed between each of said cups and said torso encircling portions, each of said peripheral surrounding portions affixed along a side thereof to a portion of said non-stretchable cups, and non-stretchable members extending substantially vertically along the medial region of said yoke and substantially vertically along the line of juxtaposition between said stretchable portions and said torso encircling portion.
 21. The brassiere as claimed in claim 20 further including a non-stretchable border along the periphery of said Y above said yoke.
 22. The brassiere as claimed in claim 20 wherein at least a portion of said underbust section is non-stretchable.
 23. The brassiere as claimed in claim 20 wherein said yoke extends vertically to the point below the line of said lower cup edges.
 24. The brassiere as claimed in claim 20 further including a non-stretchable portion between said stretchable portion along said inner cup edge and said stretchable portion along said outer cup edge.
 25. The brassiere as claimed in claim 20 wherein said stretchable portions along said inner edges includes a first branch section along the inner edge of one of said cups and a second branch section along the inner edge of the other of said cups and wherein said branches have a primary stretch direction angularly disposed with respect to the girthwise direction of said underbust section and with respect to each other.
 26. The brassiere as claimed in claim 25 wherein said primary stretch direction of each of said branches progressively deviates away from the horizontal towards the vertical as said branches extend upward along the inner edge of each of said cups.
 27. The brassiere as claimed in claim 26 further including a pair of shoulder strap assemblies, each of said shoulder strap assemblies extending from a point of juxtaposition to one of said branches along an upper region thereof to a point along said torso encircling portion.
 28. The brassiere as claimedin claim 20 wherein said torso encircling portion includes dorsal sections of an all-way stretch material.
 29. The brassiere as claimed in claim 20 including closure means along the yoke of said Y.
 30. The brassiere as claimed in claim 20 wherein said brassiere is a long-line including a skirt extending below said lower edge of said cups.
 31. A longline brassiere compRising, a torso encircling portion and a pair of non-stretchable breast cups, each of said cups including a lower edge, an inner edge and an outer edge, a skirt, a portion of said skirt extending below each of said cups, peripheral stretchable portions along the major extent of said inner and outer edges, said stretchable portions along said inner edges extending vertically along the major vertical extent of said skirt, said stretchable portions along said inner edges forming a medial substantially Y-shaped section with the yoke of said Y between said cups, said stretchable portions along said outer edges disposed between each of said cups and said torso encircling portions, each of said peripheral surrounding portions affixed along a side thereof to a portion of said non-stretchable cups, and non-stretchable members extending substantially vertically along the medial region of said yoke and substantially vertically along the line of juxtaposition between said stretchable portions and said torso encircling portion. 